Koh Lipe (pronounced lee-pay) is surprising in how much it has to offer and exudes a homely charm that has kept tourists flocking back to its beaches again and again.
Lipe is part of an island cluster known as the Butang Group situated within a national marine park. Its reefs, therefore, though not exempt from the effects of climate change, are well preserved and teeming with marine life (in fact, it is home to the world-famous dive site, 8-Mile Rock). It is also the only island in the group that has tourist accommodation - a surprising number of resorts (given the island's modest size), all of which often run full throughout the peak season months and for good reason.
The scenery is stunningly beautiful - the island is like one huge art gallery, and every beach is like an exhibition. To the south is Pattaya Beach, the island's main shore, where you'll find most of the humdrum. The east and west ends of the island, though unoriginal, are quite aptly named Sunrise and Sunset Beaches.
Finally, up north is the spectacle of Koh Adang, the largest island of the group, looming like an ancient green giant. The beaches themselves are clean and the sand comfortably fine. Naturally, sunbathers abound, yet there is always enough space for privacy.
A recent development is Walking Street, a cement walkway that extends from Pattaya's centre to the island's heart. Previously an unpaved road, it is now a bustling strip of resorts, eateries, bars, shops, dive centres and spas. It can get a little cramped especially when one of the motorbike taxis sputter past but that only adds to the exotic atmosphere of the whole affair.
In fact, catching a ride in one of the home-made looking sidecars can be a fun albeit (teeth) rattling experience.
Thai massages are reasonably cheap at 350 Baht an hour on average. There're plenty more options to pamper yourself with too and the trained masseuses know their business well. Food is always available but not always good. The difference in quality and value from one establishment to another can be as vast as the space between moons. Luckily, the good ones aren't hard to find - following the crowd or a recommendation from someone working on the island usually yields happy results. Choice abounds: you'll find everything from espresso coffee and fresh-baked treats to Thai pancakes and seafood barbecues.
There're also plenty of the usual things to do - diving, snorkelling, hiking and camping - to keep self occupied. And to make this tropical island getaway even more complete, there is a sea gypsy village for those who want to witness the 'real' Lipe.
Most of all, though, is Lipe's uncanny charm that makes it special. Somehow, one feels at home here and it is this sense of belonging that its visitors find so enchanting.
Koh Lipe is accessible by speedboat from Langkawi or Satun, Thailand. Tickets can be purchased online in advance, which helps greatly when planning a trip. Getting around Lipe is accomplished by motor-taxi, long-tail boat or simply walking.
Most service staff speak English fairly well and many businesses will trade in selected foreign currencies (don't hope for a bargain rate, though).